today the „Blue“->LINK ES9038Q2M arrived; first impressions:
the pcb is much more light (in weight) than the ones before..
first musical impressions were:
wider soundstage..heavy „lock“-problems with the Skysong-XMOS-USB-bridge (guess its a firmware/driver issue (had to wait for an update or so); i use here right now a Samsung BluRay-player directly via coax), but absolutely more „pop“-tune, by far not so analytic, spacious, also very „flat“, cries really out for a „Muses02“ OP-Amp..
there is absolutely something missing->guess it really needs its 15V..(this one is only with the 12V-plug)(but i could feed it maybe also with 15V->have to check/ask the seller)
have immediately changed to „Muses02“; which i normally don´t do in fresh, new hifi-gear..(1-2 days „play in“-time)..
the HW-control with a 10k pot was also not so promising as expected..
i didnt test the 7 different filter; maybe the „devil“ is there..
also it could be the pcb (and the soldered components itself); don´t know it at present->more to come..
Conclusion for now (and dont forget, this is „whining on a high level“ 😉 ):
more „pop-sound“ (originally the ES9038Q2M is/was made for handys/portables), not so analytic, spacious, needs apparently its 15V (+/-), cries out for another Op-Amp (Muses02 here), didnt test the filter right know; maybe its also the quality of the pcb/components..)(but that are only the first impressions, can change without notice 😉 )
(Update 2: so, got halfway at least a fairly accurate sound..(its not sooo bad/but for me it still sounds like plate/sheet 😉 )). This ES9038Q2M is very good with a Raspberry (via I2S); no clicks/pops/distortions anymore..very easy !! i use here now DietPi V6.0->tried „sabre-k2m“; didnt work..“hifiberry-dac“+“rpi-dac“ works without any problems (but only up to 24/192; as said, „our old problem“; need modified kernel..)
as said, on a pi now very easy to handle, no clicks/pops etc..sounds very well but not soo „HiFi“ as with the ES9018/28..somehow less distorted/cleaner in a way, but not so transparent/spacious as the „old“-sabres..could be a problem with the pcb/components on it..but for normal user this ES9038Q2M should be enough 😉
(by that for me DietPi V6.0 is at present much better/cleaner than Moode V4..its much „nearer“ to the original recording; with this Dietpi u can fairly begin to work it out/fine tune))
(Update 1: (Win+Skysong USB-bridge)absolute no comparison to my „old“ ES9018K2M+ES9028Q2M->they sound really much better, absolutely more Hifi; dont know what the main reason could be; maybe the pcb+the components; absolut „platy“; sounds like sheet/plate..
(Raspberry I2S Moode 4.0 („hifiberry-dac“)); sounds really better on a raspberry !! absolutely easy to use; no more such horrible clicks/pops changing files/bitrates..as made for it 😉 ->used the hifiberry-dac „overlay“->absolut no problems up to 192/24bit, but no more (our „old“ problem..) try to use some other overlays meanwhile..
settings->“Audiophonics ES9028 DAC“ works too (in Moode V4->but only up to 192/24)
see at the top line..
must be out for a few days now..
http://www.moodeaudio.org Forum:-> Link
(little installation reminder debian-stretch-lite: user pi pass raspberry..for ssh enabling ->sudo raspi-config)
for the european „Sabre-Lover“ ;-), Audiophonics.fr has now also our ES9038Q2M „on sale“(50€)..(LINK)
seems its almost identical with our „green-boards“ here;
they have also +15V DC plug on it, so i guess its PCB 1.04 minimum/upwards..
(User „Zek“ (thx a lot!) here from the forum means:“..This board has an additional regulator for a 5V pin and an additional capacitor (in the middle).“(see comments).
by that there are also some pics with more technical details..(and as said, these „solder/unsolder“-thing)
by that, Audiophonics has also a toroidal transformer „Transformer Toric 30VA 2x15V“ (LINK) on sale for only 17,90€ which seems to be ideal for our ES9038Q2M-boards..
(and a wonderful „wiring/installation“-tutorial/pictures for these torodial-transformer->http://forum.audiophonics.fr/viewtopic.php?t=389)
check it out 😉
because everyone visiting this site is really „on“ new infos to the ES9038Q2M here are some pics and a description of the new „V1.06“-pcb-layout, i would call it the „Green V1.06„..($39$ Ebay/49$-41€ Aliexpress)
they assembled also a DC-plug (here +15V DC) to it.. (to use it you have to short/solder J6 (is left above the plug from this view))
but the default voltage stays at DC +15V 0 -15V and u can still connect it directly to the board->“* It is recommended to use dual DC+-15V power supply to play board best results„
the other difference i first saw that the 3pin-header (Volume) moved from „horizontal“ to „vertical“ (or vice versa)..The jumper row is now down to 5->
(maybe some other user can us tell the other differences in future)..
looks very nice 😉
today, after 60 !! days, my LCD1602+I2C-modul finally arrived..(2.00$ Aliexpress->LINK)
i have already a 2.6″ TFT-LCD display (320×240), but also want to check these 1602-LCDs (its „standard“ for the „real“-Arduino-User 😉 )
okay, there is not soo much to tell, except that i havent bring it to work in „full mode“ so far because (and thats why i write this article here too) it was the „hell again“ 😉 soldering the I2C-modul (in this case i took a 16pin pin-strip) on the LCD-PCB..
so if u can find a 1602-LCD with a I2C-modul already soldered on it, take it ;-)..
i extended my Bluetooth-IR-sketch now with a „blink“ from the whole display (“ lcd.backlight(); delay(250); lcd.noBacklight(); delay(250);“ 😉 everytime i make a command, type a „value“ via the Bluetooth-App; as confirmation..
Its blue and i first thought i print the source („CD,DVD,XMOS-USB etc..)“ on it; but there are no characters on it by now cause i guess i have to solder some pins again ;-(..
useful sketches i´ve found so far were:“identify the I2C-adress from the modul („i2c_adress.ino“) and a simple sketch to get data via the serial monitor and print it on the screen..(.inos and links here->http://essabre-90xx-rpi.sfb2.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=19 )
so far so good, many greets from here 😉
after i´ve got my „Arduino Mega 2560 R3“->on sale 11,99€ Amazon->LINK a few days ago, i just wanted to revive my „Project 1“ Cambridge Audio Azur A540 Remote via a „Bluepill“ (STM32F103C8T6) or an Arduino; original post here-> http://essabre-90xx-rpi.sfb2.com/2017/12/programming-subkurs-i-ir-receiver-raspberry-pi-project-1-cambridge-audio-azur-540a-remote/..
I´ve ordered an Arduino because this Bluepill/STM32-programming via the Arduino IDE is still very complicated at present imo, because there were nowhere really clear,simple instructions and libraries (pin assignments and so on)..(more maybe later)..
so i´ve decided to „fall back“ on this original Arduino-thing, hoped it would be easier at first for me..
long story short: (I´ve made a really long TuT over at the forum->http://essabre-90xx-rpi.sfb2.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=18)
because i didnt know how to send and receive IR-signals (simultaneously) and which pins i then i have to/use edit in the boarddefs.h (Arduino IRremote-library) i switched over to my HC-06 Bluetooth-Modul….
Full story (as said) here->http://essabre-90xx-rpi.sfb2.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=18
and now it works here absolute fantastic !!! 😉
came by chance over this !! :
(NEW: Aliexpress 39,99$/32,70€ incl.shipping->https://de.aliexpress.com/item/KGUSS-M7A-JRC55320-ES9038Q2M-I2S-DSD-Optical-Coaxial-Eingang-Decoder-DAC-Kopfh-rerausgang-Audio-verst-rkerplatine/32853239479.html
Voltage: DC 9-15V
PCB Measurements: 76 * 86MM
I2S-pins are reversed: GND, vakant, LRCK, BCLK, DATA
J1 short: coax-input
J2 short: opt (toslink)-input
J1 and J2 not short (open): I2S-input
J3, J4, J5, J6 not short (open), Filter = Apodizing Fast Roll-Off Filter
J3 nicht kurzgeschlossen:
J4 kurz, Filter = Ziegelwandfilter
J5 kurzgeschlossen, Filter = korrigierter minimaler Phasen-Schnell-Roll-Off-Filter
J6 kurzgeschlossen, Filter = Minimum-Phase-Slow-Roll-Off-Filter
J4 kurzgeschlossen, Filter = minimaler Phasen-Schnell-Abrollfilter
J5 kurzgeschlossen, Filter = linearer Phasen-Slow-Roll-Filter
J6 kurzgeschlossen, Filter = linearer Phasen-Fast-Roll-Off-Filter
VOL: 1-2 kurz zum Stummschalten, 2-3 kurz zur maximalen Lautstärke
Kann ein externes einzelnes Potentiometer sein, Drehgriff des Potentiometers zur Überbrückungsrichtung, gefolgt von der entsprechenden Verdrahtung und erhöht die Lautstärke von links nach rechts
(edit it to english later)..
and so, because i had great problems/was not possible to order from TaoBao direct, i got today a free 8$ coupon from yoybuy.com..checked it now for the first time and will then report here any info.. 😉