DIY: Relay-controlled source-/filter selection ES9038Q2M (Arduino)

so, 😉
because i´m really stupid and really don´t know how to accomplish a „jumper-substitution“ and after reading in some Arduino-forums, i came to the idea of buying some relay and try to realise it via this way..
These relays are cheap, around 2€ or so, u can buy it as 1,2,4,8 and so on..they are really easy to connect/addressable..


(remark: the 3 wires on the right are for the 10k poti (and then in future for the digi-poti of course))

u connect the GND and + from JP1 on the ES9038Q2M to COM (GND) and NO (+) and thats it..(i first connected it to the NC (normally closed) but that means, if u shut the Arduino down, then the circuit is (normally-)“closed“, means jumper set..

the relay itself is easy connected; GND from the Arduino to the GND and Power (5V+) from the Arduino to the VCC-pin (the jumper JD-VCC etc.. is another story, only remove and connect it to an external power source if u want to separate the Arduino-circuit completely from the relais circuit).
IN1,IN2 etc. is connected to a pin of your choice/assignment made in the sketch like this:
//relais
#define RELAY1 8
#define RELAY2 12
#define RELAY3 6
#define RELAY4 7
(i will post the modified sketch in the forum->LINK)
so, and now i can control/set the source via the BT (via our sketch), means for example „c“ for coaxial, „o“ for optical, „i“ for I2S and so on..

if (a==’c‘)
{
BT.println(„Source: coaxial“);
digitalWrite(RELAY2,HIGH); //R2 OFF
delay(50);
digitalWrite(RELAY1,LOW); //R1 ON
..
lcd.print(„Source: coaxial“);

}

i, u, can also use this now to set the different-filter-types, as for example JP3=set and JP4=set ->“slow minimum roll off filter“)..(will also maybe make a modified sketch for this future..)..
so, and really funny/cool 😉 is that these relays really make a „clack“-noise, everytime u adress it, for example i choose „c“=coaxial it makes „clack“ and it changes to coaxial..


really „Hi-Fi“ 😉

(forum-link->LINK)

DIY: 2.6″ TFT-LCD (320*240) SPI ARDUINO MEGA 2560 *MCUFRIEND* (Part2) **works**

so, 😉
got the above mentioned 2.6″ tftlcd finally to work !! 😉

(3,40€->https://de.aliexpress.com/item/LCD-module-TFT-2-6-inch-TFT-LCD-screen-for-Arduino-Mega2560-R3-Board/32716341280.html)

see this (Part1)->http://essabre-90xx-rpi.sfb2.com/2017/11/2-6-tft-lcd-320240-spi-arduino-mega-2560-mcufriend/
and this new post in the forum->http://essabre-90xx-rpi.sfb2.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=29
the „breakthrough“ was via this site->http://forum.cxem.net/index.php?/topic/197765-26-inch-tftlcd-for-arduino-mega-2560-unknoun-driver/
(i got the chip/controller ID:“0x0404„)
and this very,very important,modified library->http://www.sfb2.com/pics/UTFT_for_ST7781.rar

(more, full article/post/tut in the forum)

DIY: Migration sketch/build-up Arduino Mega2560 to Uno R3

so, 😉
hello, nothing new in particular..got today my „Geekcreit® UNO R3 ATmega328P“ for roundabout 3€ (i order there sometimes because of (in general) faster shipping times then Aliexpress)->
https://www.banggood.com/UNO-R3-ATmega328P-Development-Board-For-Arduino-No-Cable-p-964163.html

nothing special, except u have to use „Pin3“ instead of „Pin9“ on the Mega2560 for irsend..
(made a long post in the forum->http://essabre-90xx-rpi.sfb2.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=28)

greets 😉

ES9038Q2M: „Project 2“->building a BT-controlled HW-Volume-control (digital pot 10kOhm) MCP4131

so, 😉
because its a little bit silent around here lately, we still don´t know if the „Blue“ ES9038Q2M has a „shitty“ pcb and the „green“-ones sounds better, i have still buffer/“lock“-problems in windows using the V4.36 Singxer-driver on the Skysong-XMOS-USB in sample rates above 16/44 i wanted to use the onboard-HW-volume control, to which u can connect a normal 10kOhm-potentiometer (see pictures) easy..

 


i tested it here, and it works far not so good as expected and i guess u have a very small range of about 20% or so (in my feel) too..
i thought i could easy use the Arduino with analogwrite () and connect one pin to the middle of the onboard-3 pin but what i´ve read so far is that the Arduino can only send out PWM-signals so u need an external digital potentiometer (thats what i´ve read so far, don´t know if its true) and control it via the (in this case) SPI-bus/protocol..
for this u can buy a cheap MCP, in this case a MCP4131 of around 0,89€ and a Dip-8 socket (0,51€) etc.,etc..(more to come..)


(very good tutorial for this right now:
http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/MCP4131-digital-potentiometer-circuit.php)

i will post here any „improvements“ (and (maybe) a full tut) asap..!! 😉

DIY: LCD1602+I2C modul..(sketches+links)

so, 😉
today, after 60 !! days, my LCD1602+I2C-modul finally arrived..(2.00$ Aliexpress->LINK)


i have already a 2.6″ TFT-LCD display (320×240), but also want to check these 1602-LCDs (its „standard“ for the „real“-Arduino-User 😉 )
okay, there is not soo much to tell, except that i havent bring it to work in „full mode“ so far because (and thats why i write this article here too) it was the „hell again“ 😉 soldering the I2C-modul (in this case i took a 16pin pin-strip) on the LCD-PCB..
so if u can find a 1602-LCD with a I2C-modul already soldered on it, take it ;-)..
i extended my Bluetooth-IR-sketch now with a „blink“ from the whole display (“ lcd.backlight(); delay(250); lcd.noBacklight(); delay(250);“ 😉 everytime i make a command, type a „value“ via the Bluetooth-App; as confirmation..
Its blue and i first thought i print the source („CD,DVD,XMOS-USB etc..)“ on it; but there are no characters on it by now cause i guess i have to solder some pins again ;-(..
useful sketches i´ve found so far were:“identify the I2C-adress from the modul („i2c_adress.ino“) and a simple sketch to get data via the serial monitor and print it on the screen..(.inos and links here->http://essabre-90xx-rpi.sfb2.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=19 )

so far so good, many greets from here 😉

DIY: Make your own +15V DC power supply (for ES9038Q2M or other) (the cheap way)

okay, 😉
thought about the power supply (+15V or +/- 15V) for the ES9038Q2M (or the other Chinese-Boards, its basically the same); my bought,“normal“ 220V adjustable power supply has only 12V DC max and so i thought about another way; had a month ago a power supply for a Thinkpad T43, 19V i think, was sold and got today a HP power supply (for some printer)->32V..


2 (4) possibilities: either u buy directly a power supply from amazon/ebay/aliexpress->3$ and up
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1Pcs-DC-15V-1A-1000mA-AC-100-240V-Converter-Adapter-Power-Supply-EU-Plug-Free-shipping/32311869443.html

or use an old, unneeded one, like this HP one for printer for example, or laptop or something and buy a cheap „Step Down Power Regulator/Module“ from Aliexpress (of about 1,50$ and up)-> https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-5A-High-power-75W-DC-DC-adjustable-step-down-module-LED-Voltmeter-Power-supply-module/32688669737.html

Input Voltage (this modul) 4-38V DC
Output Voltage 1,25-36V DC
Ampere max. 4A..
i read elsewhere that the ES9038Q2M only needs about ca. 500mA..so normal laptop or printer power supplies should be enough (this HP power supply has 625mA)
cut off the plug, and so u have your 2 wires to connect to your power step down module (or directly), adjust the right output voltage and wire it with 2 lines/cable up to the ES9038Q2M; easy as this 😉
(BUT, soundwise its really,really better to use a toroidal dual 15V transformer like this (25$)-> https://de.aliexpress.com/item/115-V-230-V-30-Watt-R-typ-transformatoren-Dual-15-V-Dual-6-V-ausgang/32833217523.html)
(or the ultimate HiFi-High End choice would be a „battery-pack“; for example a bike-battery 😉 😉 (12$+charger)

but for the „cheap“-beginning the above choice should be enough.. 😉

Programming-Subkurs I: IR-Receiver -> Raspberry Pi / + „Project 1“: Cambridge Audio Azur 540A Remote

so,
because this site is all about „Building your own DIY-DAC“ 😉 (and audio in general) i just new invented a new category: Programming (Rpi+STM32) + „Projects“-> in this case „Project 1 – building your own Cambridge Audio Azur 540A Remote“ 😉
okay, got a wonderful IR-Receiver+Remote-Set (HX1838) from Aliexpress today->0,78€ !! (inkl.shipping)->Link

and have here at home an „Cambridge Audio Azur 540A“ – Amplifier..



(really good sound (more maybe later), got almost everyday better 😉 )
but with a really horrible, horrible IR-Remote->i have to point to from 1cm away 😉 ), so i thought i build an own ir-modul (receiver and transmitter) with this DIY-things and a STM32F103C8T6 „Bluepill“..
long story short: tried to setup LIRC on a RPI according to this TUT->https://tutorials-raspberrypi.de/raspberry-pi-ir-remote-control/
bu there was no output in the console..googled a lot and the solution is->“LIRC not working on Raspbian Stretch Raspberry Pi“->
„## 0.9.4 disruptive update
The configuration is so much changed that updating from 0.9.0 requires
manual intervention. This could be done using the update scripts or as
a completely manual process. Many users will always need some manual steps“
from here->https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=192891
another thing is, its not a .sh file (as wrongly described) , but a python one, so->“sudo python3 lirc-old2new„..
(now it works..)
(more to come..)

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