DIY: Relay-controlled source-/filter selection ES9038Q2M (Arduino)

so, 😉
because i´m really stupid and really don´t know how to accomplish a „jumper-substitution“ and after reading in some Arduino-forums, i came to the idea of buying some relay and try to realise it via this way..
These relays are cheap, around 2€ or so, u can buy it as 1,2,4,8 and so on..they are really easy to connect/addressable..

(remark: the 3 wires on the right are for the 10k poti (and then in future for the digi-poti of course))

u connect the GND and + from JP1 on the ES9038Q2M to COM (GND) and NO (+) and thats it..(i first connected it to the NC (normally closed) but that means, if u shut the Arduino down, then the circuit is (normally-)“closed“, means jumper set..

the relay itself is easy connected; GND from the Arduino to the GND and Power (5V+) from the Arduino to the VCC-pin (the jumper JD-VCC etc.. is another story, only remove and connect it to an external power source if u want to separate the Arduino-circuit completely from the relais circuit).
IN1,IN2 etc. is connected to a pin of your choice/assignment made in the sketch like this:
#define RELAY1 8
#define RELAY2 12
#define RELAY3 6
#define RELAY4 7
(i will post the modified sketch in the forum->LINK)
so, and now i can control/set the source via the BT (via our sketch), means for example „c“ for coaxial, „o“ for optical, „i“ for I2S and so on..

if (a==’c‘)
BT.println(„Source: coaxial“);
digitalWrite(RELAY2,HIGH); //R2 OFF
digitalWrite(RELAY1,LOW); //R1 ON
lcd.print(„Source: coaxial“);


i, u, can also use this now to set the different-filter-types, as for example JP3=set and JP4=set ->“slow minimum roll off filter“)..(will also maybe make a modified sketch for this future..)..
so, and really funny/cool 😉 is that these relays really make a „clack“-noise, everytime u adress it, for example i choose „c“=coaxial it makes „clack“ and it changes to coaxial..

really „Hi-Fi“ 😉


DIY: 2.6″ TFT-LCD (320*240) SPI ARDUINO MEGA 2560 *MCUFRIEND* (Part2) **works**

so, 😉
got the above mentioned 2.6″ tftlcd finally to work !! 😉


see this (Part1)->
and this new post in the forum->
the „breakthrough“ was via this site->
(i got the chip/controller ID:“0x0404„)
and this very,very important,modified library->

(more, full article/post/tut in the forum)

DIY: Migration sketch/build-up Arduino Mega2560 to Uno R3

so, 😉
hello, nothing new in today my „Geekcreit® UNO R3 ATmega328P“ for roundabout 3€ (i order there sometimes because of (in general) faster shipping times then Aliexpress)->

nothing special, except u have to use „Pin3“ instead of „Pin9“ on the Mega2560 for irsend..
(made a long post in the forum->

greets 😉

ES9038Q2M: „Project 2“->building a BT-controlled HW-Volume-control (digital pot 10kOhm) MCP4131

so, 😉
because its a little bit silent around here lately, we still don´t know if the „Blue“ ES9038Q2M has a „shitty“ pcb and the „green“-ones sounds better, i have still buffer/“lock“-problems in windows using the V4.36 Singxer-driver on the Skysong-XMOS-USB in sample rates above 16/44 i wanted to use the onboard-HW-volume control, to which u can connect a normal 10kOhm-potentiometer (see pictures) easy..


i tested it here, and it works far not so good as expected and i guess u have a very small range of about 20% or so (in my feel) too..
i thought i could easy use the Arduino with analogwrite () and connect one pin to the middle of the onboard-3 pin but what i´ve read so far is that the Arduino can only send out PWM-signals so u need an external digital potentiometer (thats what i´ve read so far, don´t know if its true) and control it via the (in this case) SPI-bus/protocol..
for this u can buy a cheap MCP, in this case a MCP4131 of around 0,89€ and a Dip-8 socket (0,51€) etc.,etc..(more to come..)

(very good tutorial for this right now:

i will post here any „improvements“ (and (maybe) a full tut) asap..!! 😉

DIY: LCD1602+I2C modul..(sketches+links)

so, 😉
today, after 60 !! days, my LCD1602+I2C-modul finally arrived..(2.00$ Aliexpress->LINK)

i have already a 2.6″ TFT-LCD display (320×240), but also want to check these 1602-LCDs (its „standard“ for the „real“-Arduino-User 😉 )
okay, there is not soo much to tell, except that i havent bring it to work in „full mode“ so far because (and thats why i write this article here too) it was the „hell again“ 😉 soldering the I2C-modul (in this case i took a 16pin pin-strip) on the LCD-PCB..
so if u can find a 1602-LCD with a I2C-modul already soldered on it, take it ;-)..
i extended my Bluetooth-IR-sketch now with a „blink“ from the whole display (“ lcd.backlight(); delay(250); lcd.noBacklight(); delay(250);“ 😉 everytime i make a command, type a „value“ via the Bluetooth-App; as confirmation..
Its blue and i first thought i print the source („CD,DVD,XMOS-USB etc..)“ on it; but there are no characters on it by now cause i guess i have to solder some pins again ;-(..
useful sketches i´ve found so far were:“identify the I2C-adress from the modul („i2c_adress.ino“) and a simple sketch to get data via the serial monitor and print it on the screen..(.inos and links here-> )

so far so good, many greets from here 😉

DIY: Make your own +15V DC power supply (for ES9038Q2M or other) (the cheap way)

okay, 😉
thought about the power supply (+15V or +/- 15V) for the ES9038Q2M (or the other Chinese-Boards, its basically the same); my bought,“normal“ 220V adjustable power supply has only 12V DC max and so i thought about another way; had a month ago a power supply for a Thinkpad T43, 19V i think, was sold and got today a HP power supply (for some printer)->32V..

2 (4) possibilities: either u buy directly a power supply from amazon/ebay/aliexpress->3$ and up

or use an old, unneeded one, like this HP one for printer for example, or laptop or something and buy a cheap „Step Down Power Regulator/Module“ from Aliexpress (of about 1,50$ and up)->

Input Voltage (this modul) 4-38V DC
Output Voltage 1,25-36V DC
Ampere max. 4A..
i read elsewhere that the ES9038Q2M only needs about ca. normal laptop or printer power supplies should be enough (this HP power supply has 625mA)
cut off the plug, and so u have your 2 wires to connect to your power step down module (or directly), adjust the right output voltage and wire it with 2 lines/cable up to the ES9038Q2M; easy as this 😉
(BUT, soundwise its really,really better to use a toroidal dual 15V transformer like this (25$)->
(or the ultimate HiFi-High End choice would be a „battery-pack“; for example a bike-battery 😉 😉 (12$+charger)

but for the „cheap“-beginning the above choice should be enough.. 😉

Programming-Subkurs I: IR-Receiver -> Raspberry Pi / + „Project 1“: Cambridge Audio Azur 540A Remote

because this site is all about „Building your own DIY-DAC“ 😉 (and audio in general) i just new invented a new category: Programming (Rpi+STM32) + „Projects“-> in this case „Project 1 – building your own Cambridge Audio Azur 540A Remote“ 😉
okay, got a wonderful IR-Receiver+Remote-Set (HX1838) from Aliexpress today->0,78€ !! (inkl.shipping)->Link

and have here at home an „Cambridge Audio Azur 540A“ – Amplifier..

(really good sound (more maybe later), got almost everyday better 😉 )
but with a really horrible, horrible IR-Remote->i have to point to from 1cm away 😉 ), so i thought i build an own ir-modul (receiver and transmitter) with this DIY-things and a STM32F103C8T6 „Bluepill“..
long story short: tried to setup LIRC on a RPI according to this TUT->
bu there was no output in the console..googled a lot and the solution is->“LIRC not working on Raspbian Stretch Raspberry Pi“->
„## 0.9.4 disruptive update
The configuration is so much changed that updating from 0.9.0 requires
manual intervention. This could be done using the update scripts or as
a completely manual process. Many users will always need some manual steps“
from here->
another thing is, its not a .sh file (as wrongly described) , but a python one, so->“sudo python3 lirc-old2new„..
(now it works..)
(more to come..)

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