DIY: Make your own +15V DC power supply (for ES9038Q2M or other) (the cheap way)

okay, 😉
thought about the power supply (+15V or +/- 15V) for the ES9038Q2M (or the other Chinese-Boards, its basically the same); my bought,“normal“ 220V adjustable power supply has only 12V DC max and so i thought about another way; had a month ago a power supply for a Thinkpad T43, 19V i think, was sold and got today a HP power supply (for some printer)->32V..


2 (4) possibilities: either u buy directly a power supply from amazon/ebay/aliexpress->3$ and up
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1Pcs-DC-15V-1A-1000mA-AC-100-240V-Converter-Adapter-Power-Supply-EU-Plug-Free-shipping/32311869443.html

or use an old, unneeded one, like this HP one for printer for example, or laptop or something and buy a cheap „Step Down Power Regulator/Module“ from Aliexpress (of about 1,50$ and up)-> https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-5A-High-power-75W-DC-DC-adjustable-step-down-module-LED-Voltmeter-Power-supply-module/32688669737.html

Input Voltage (this modul) 4-38V DC
Output Voltage 1,25-36V DC
Ampere max. 4A..
i read elsewhere that the ES9038Q2M only needs about ca. 500mA..so normal laptop or printer power supplies should be enough (this HP power supply has 625mA)
cut off the plug, and so u have your 2 wires to connect to your power step down module (or directly), adjust the right output voltage and wire it with 2 lines/cable up to the ES9038Q2M; easy as this 😉
(BUT, soundwise its really,really better to use a toroidal dual 15V transformer like this (25$)-> https://de.aliexpress.com/item/115-V-230-V-30-Watt-R-typ-transformatoren-Dual-15-V-Dual-6-V-ausgang/32833217523.html)
(or the ultimate HiFi-High End choice would be a „battery-pack“; for example a bike-battery 😉 😉 (12$+charger)

but for the „cheap“-beginning the above choice should be enough.. 😉

Programming-Subkurs I: IR-Receiver -> Raspberry Pi / + „Project 1“: Cambridge Audio Azur 540A Remote

so,
because this site is all about „Building your own DIY-DAC“ 😉 (and audio in general) i just new invented a new category: Programming (Rpi+STM32) + „Projects“-> in this case „Project 1 – building your own Cambridge Audio Azur 540A Remote“ 😉
okay, got a wonderful IR-Receiver+Remote-Set (HX1838) from Aliexpress today->0,78€ !! (inkl.shipping)->Link

and have here at home an „Cambridge Audio Azur 540A“ – Amplifier..



(really good sound (more maybe later), got almost everyday better 😉 )
but with a really horrible, horrible IR-Remote->i have to point to from 1cm away 😉 ), so i thought i build an own ir-modul (receiver and transmitter) with this DIY-things and a STM32F103C8T6 „Bluepill“..
long story short: tried to setup LIRC on a RPI according to this TUT->https://tutorials-raspberrypi.de/raspberry-pi-ir-remote-control/
bu there was no output in the console..googled a lot and the solution is->“LIRC not working on Raspbian Stretch Raspberry Pi“->
„## 0.9.4 disruptive update
The configuration is so much changed that updating from 0.9.0 requires
manual intervention. This could be done using the update scripts or as
a completely manual process. Many users will always need some manual steps“
from here->https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=192891
another thing is, its not a .sh file (as wrongly described) , but a python one, so->“sudo python3 lirc-old2new„..
(now it works..)
(more to come..)

Update DIY: STM32F103C8T6 („BLUE PILL“) + ST Link V2

so,
got yesterday my STM32F103C8T6 (earlier post)->diy-stm32f103c8t6-blue-pill-oled-tft-display/
1,55€ (inkl.shipping)->Aliexpress -> Link
first->its smaller than i expected (see 2.picture) and its very „friggling“..

i thought, no problem, i use my Pi, wire it up like in some Youtube-Videos, use the Arduino IDE and begin to upload a sketch etc..
but:Wasn´t“ ; )..got always a „STM32flash -> „Device init failed
(use btw. first my USB-serial adapter with RX,TX and ground->Arduino said:“Device not recognized“)..
googled through a thousand STM32-Arduino-forum/threads, millions of hours, and the final conclusion is:

Buy a ST-Link V2 !! -> 1,68€ Aliexpress -> Link

directly from the beginning (with a STM32F103C8T6)->strongly adviced/recommended from my side here too !! 😉
(hope this will do the trick !! (toi,toi,toi->german phrase)) 😉

Link-tip: Audiophonics.fr

so,
Audiophonics.fr has wonderful pricey DIY-things, like cheap DC-DC Converter Module 3.3-13V to +/-15V by example but also a lot of DIY-Hifi-equipment..found it originally by their ES9028Q2M Audiophonics-made „Audiophonics I-Sabre ES9028Q2M TXCO„-HAT..
can be also expensive, u have to look exactly, but as said also relatively pricey things and they resident in the EU->means shorter shipping-times (for me)..
interesting site..😉


HDMI I2S LVDS to I2S Input Module HDMI I2S LVDS to I2S Output->24,90€->https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/diy-interfaces/hdmi-i2s-lvds-to-i2s-input-module-hdmi-i2s-lvds-to-i2s-output-p-12422.html

2.6″ TFT-lcd (320*240) SPI Arduino Mega 2560 *mcufriend*

so,
lucky me, i got today my 2.6″ (320*240) SPI-TFTLCD-display directly from china, of about 3,40€ !! 😉 (inclusive shipping), unbelievable, from Aliexpress..


all in regard of my planned DIY-DAC (see some posts before and therefore the website is all about 😉 ), cause this TFT-LCD should show the input-source (USB,Coax,Opt.), sampling frequency, filter settings (FIRs), Volume (db) and so on..
okay, there was no information on the sellers-site about the chipset in it (and i need the info for the different Arduino+Raspberry GFX-libraries) i had to google a lot and will now show the „results“:
First, in this special TFT is an „ILI9341„; read out on a RPI3B with „fbtft_device“->

second, problem now was, because there were absolute no documentation about the pin-layout on the backside, how to wire it for SPI ?
so, a lot of googling again and here are the results Part II.:


so, my final wiring is now:
3,3V (5V is not working) Pin5 from the 6pin header at the bottom->to RPI Pin1 (Power)
GND Pin2 from the 6pin header->RPI Pin9
MOSI to MOSI !! means „SD_in“ on the first picture -> RPI pin19
MISO to MISO means „SD_Out“ ->RPI pin21
CS to „SD_CS“ ->RPI pin24 !! (CE0) ((not pin26)->CE1)
and SCLK to „SD_SCK“ ->RPI pin23..
(unfortunately i have only a light screen here now, but i guess it has something to do with the software; i will make here an update if necessary)..
(just as info for other user with similar problems)..
good tuturial: SPI on a raspberry pi->https://www.xgadget.de/anleitung/2-2-spi-display-ili9341-am-raspberry-betreiben/

AK4113 + CS8416 Digital-Receiver SPDIF to I2S converter+ software control + 1602 LCD wiring-diagram

so,
after i looked about some cheap SPDIF (Coax+opt) to I2S converter, i came across these 2 birds:
AK4113: (10$ at Ebay & Aliexpress)and CS8416: (12$ at Ebay & Aliexpress)
they are both capable of max 192khz input and u can select the input-port via the „BUT“-port switch..
The LCD-display should show the Input-Line and the sample-frequency..
and because there were no wiring diagram on the sellers-site i searched a bit/lot and found some wiring-diagrams for these 2 on audiophonics.fr..
(just in case there were also google-user who are interested in such a diagram)

DSD-LED (+Volume and FIR-Buttons) on these ES9028Q2M-Boards..(DIY)

so,
because here is so much feedback/and website-views on this ES9028Q2M i thought i write  something about it again..
after thinking about programming this STM 8S103F3 MCU on the board (and see some Arduino IDE tuturials to become a LED blinking par example->https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/sik-experiment-guide-for-arduino—v32/experiment-1-blinking-an-led , super nice a MUST to watch !! 😉 ) and examining the layout i see that there are also these „Vol+“,“Vol-„, „Delay“ (means filter-settings (FIRs) i think) and the „DSD“ + „PCM“ holes for Diodes/LEDs..

 


so i think u need only an LED (i would say Blue for DSD and Red for PCM) and a 220 Ohm-Resistor->

 

to make this LEDs „shine“ 😉
also with such Buttons (here i had measurements about 1cm*0,7cm (100mm*70mm)) it must be possible to have a HW-Volume and Filter-Control..
but u have to solder it right 😉 ..

another possibility would also be to solder some 4 Male 2.54mm Pin Header on it, and connect it then to a STM32F103C8T6 by example to control it via this (and with a bluetooth-receiver-transmitter and bluetooth-app par example..)
still thinking about; greets for the moment 😉

 

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